How to buy, prepare and cook fish and seafood properly
Fish and shellfish is full of protein, low in fat and quick to cook. Here’s how to make the most of delicious seafood
Matt Owens is National Chairman of the Craft Guild of Chefs, which supports chefs with training and development. This edition he talks about all things eggs.
HEN: use the best quality hen’s eggs you can afford. Eggs such as Burford Browns have deep golden yolks. Try in dishes such as eggs benedict.
DUCK: larger than a hen’s egg, duck eggs offer a deeper flavour. With bigger yolks and thicker whites, they are perfect for baking and meringues.
QUAIL: tiny and a little bit fiddly, yes, but they’re also richer and more indulgent. Soft-boil and add to salads or use in a mini scotch egg.
As eggs age, the white becomes looser so you’re more likely to end up with wispy bits. Fresh eggs create a neater, better-looking poached egg.
If you add too much, it can start to break down the egg in the water. Lightly season and only add a dash of vinegar.
It should be just off the boil when you add the egg, too vigorous and you’ll lose the shape. Some chefs prefer to crack it into a cup, then add to the water.
Half cook the eggs in advance, then store in ice cold water. When ready to serve, drop into lightly seasoned water and briefly cook.
Impressive, versatile and low cost, meringues are a must-try. It’s essential to use fresh eggs as they’ll give better volume.
French meringues are the simplest to make – my top tip is to ensure the whites are foamy before slowly adding the sugar. Turn into pavlovas or meringue kisses.
Italian meringue, made with hot sugar syrup, is a great option as it’s stable and less fragile than French. Use it for buttercreams or as a fruit pie topping.
“There’s so much you can do with the humble egg, it’s pretty incredible when you think about it. Respect this versatile commodity – buy from a good source and use when super fresh”
Aside from meringues, there are many uses for egg whites. If you often have leftover whites, let your bar team know. Egg whites are fantastic in cocktails such as whisky or pisco sours, adding a smoothness and touch of luxury.
Combine honey or sugar, nuts and egg whites to make chewy nougat, and stir chunks into cookie dough or ice cream.
Yolks’ richness is a key component in many sauces such as hollandaise, béarnaise, custard and mayonnaise.
Custard is brilliant for putting your stamp on – flavour with cream liqueurs, citrus or coffee. It can be served as a sauce, set in desserts like crème brûlée or churned into ice cream.
One interesting use is in mashed potato – yolks enrich the potato, creating an indulgent side.
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